I know this isn’t a reasonable suggestion, but if you are going to go to Cartagena, I recommend going for a wedding. Tiffany and I had the honor to be invited for the wedding of her friends Valeria & Marshall. It was a fantastic way to take a high energy survey of the city.
Getting into town, we made a beeline to La Cevicheria for lunch, which never fails to disappoint. The fresh ceviches are the star of the show, but don’t miss their amazing rice dishes like Pulpo in salsa de mani (octopus in peanut sauce).
That evening we popped over to a nearby hotel for rooftop welcome drinks in the old city. As we took in the views of the old city, Marshall flexed his fluency by giving a welcome speech in what was completely perfect Spanish, including more than a few dichos (sayings) that pulled in the laughs.
The ceremony was held late in the afternoon at magic hour on top of the fort that lines the old city, Baluarte Santiago Apostol.
With Val’s family from Colombia in attendance, the entire ceremony was led in both Spanish and English. It turns out it remains just as emotional when you have to read same vows back to back in two languages. It was so touching to see Marshall tear up again while re-reading his same vows in English, having just finished doing it in Spanish.
After the ceremony, a band showed up and led us through a raucous second line through the old city. 90 degrees with high humidity, my suit didn’t stand a chance. If someone could design a Nike dry-fit suit that still looked normal, I’d be so appreciative. Some of my most intense cardio has been in my navy linen suit. I guess God gives his most tailored soldiers his toughest battles.
The second line culminated in a giant hall with a lighting rig to rival a Shakira concert. Not long afterwards, the music began. Reader, let me tell you it was a full on salsa extravaganza!
The only thing keeping me cool were these tiny green beers called Costeñitas. File it under a blessing and a curse, but our waiter made it his mission to keep our table hydrated. I’d be on the dance floor doing my best not to mess up the vibe with my Ashkenazi rhythm and he’d tap my shoulder and hand me a fresh Costeñita!
If the salsa band wasn’t enough, the band segued into a DJ flown in from Miami to blend cumbia with top 40, hip hop etc…and keep the dance floor full of sabor. More than a couple guests were passing around a bottle of Colombia’s national liquor, Aguardiente.
When it comes to a great wedding, I’m a sucker for surprises and late night snacks. At our good friends Michael and Sarah’s wedding in New Orleans, their amazing 2nd line culminated with spicy chicken sandwiches from Popeye’s. The crispy logistics blew my mind and it was much needed sustenance going into the afterparty.
Meanwhile back in Cartagena, we were hitting the dance floor hard. I had long since sweat through my linen. Around midnight-ish, each table got a Colombian picada, a big plate filled with crispy chicharron, empanadas, arepas and a bunch of other tasty delights that proved a worthy adversary to the endless supply of tiny beers.
Moments afterward, carnival style dancers, hit the floor, including a Colombian jester type dude that really set the scene.
Called the marimonda, he wears a mask that is a cross between an elephant and monkey. The marimonda originally insulted the ruling class and public officials, but for us he was just making sure things stayed very litty.
At 2am, things came to a close, and folks were making their way to the after party with the mission to see the sunrise. 10 hours felt sufficient on our end so Tiffany and I made our way home and collapsed into bed.
The next day, the generosity continued unabated they treated us to a despedida lunch of paella at Val’s family’s restaurant Plaza Majagua. Hearts full and feet sore, it was simply the perfect way to explore and experience Cartagena.
I probably think about Popeye’s sandwiches once a day
ViBeZ